Rome & its Pastas

Rome and its Pastas.

When thinking of the cuisine of Rome, one must think of pasta, then a little more pasta and then more pasta again. Four pasta dishes synonymous with the capital are, pasta alla carbonara, Cacio e pepe & pasta alla Gricia and pasta al’Amatriciana.

Prior to cooking on the stoves in Rome, I had watched many versions of pasta being made in commercial kitchens, all of which would have left any Roman reaching for the chef's throat. It was not long once living in Rome, that I found my absolute favourite and hence why we’re beginning our tour with pasta alla carbonara.

The origins of this dish are hotly debated. According to Elena Kostioukovitch in her book, ‘Why Italians like to talk about food’ she argues that the origins came out of Abruzzo in the 12th or 13th century, with the Carbonai, “charcoal burners, who produced wood coal for sale.” These carbonai also took up arms to defend their land against the Kingdom of Naples. Through literature their heroism was immortalised.

Kostioukovitch also refers to the Carbonari, a secret society involved with the Italian Risorgimento and the reunification movement, who took their name from the Carbonai. The ingredients of guanciale, pecorino, eggs and pasta were staples of this area. However, it is very difficult to link the names of these groups and the pasta itself.

Another theory is that Roman shepherds who had these ingredients at their disposal developed the dish which slowly found its way into Roman trattorias and households. Other theories yet centre around WWII and the Americans' arrival in Rome with their fondness of bacon.

Whatever the origins, Carbonara has undoubtedly become a symbol of Roman cuisine that, in its simplicity and minimalism, has been exported around the world. However just like the omelette test for French cooks, I remember whilst working under the guidance Michelin Chef, Salvatore Tassa, he would distinguish a good chef by their ability to pull together and emulsify a carbonara sauce.

There are many venues in Rome more than suitable for a first bite of carbonara, however there is one place to go “for the best Carbonara of your life” as quoted by a colleague. It’s a venue that sources premium produce; their guanciale is artisanal, they use Pecorino Romano DOP, produced in a specific geographical zone and according to tradition. The eggs are from Paolo Parisi in Le Macchie, Tuscany whilst the final ingredient of pepper is indulgingly added from three different varieties.

The Gricia sauce, is commonly thought of as the original of the Roman pastas, is also the lesser known of these and is often referred to as the ‘white amatriciana’ as it consists of guanciale, pecorino and black pepper. It is similar to the carbonara, only dismissing the egg.

Cacio e pepe, removes the carbonara, and consists of only pecorino romano and black pepper. However simple this sounds, this too has been exported in a stupefied way such as the Mac n Cheese. Like most pastas, it is in the simplicity that allows the ingredients of the dish to sing. At Roscioli Salumeria e Cucina, their Cacio e Pepe is described; tonnarello all’uovo fatto in casa con pecorino romano DOP, cacio di Moliterno, pecorino di fossa di Sogliano al Rubicone e tris di pepe selezione Roscioli, Tonnarello (an egg based pasta) made in house served with Pecorino Romano DOP, cacio, another cheese from Moliterno, another pecorino from Fossa, in Emilia Romagna. Then the addition of the trio of pepper varieties. Simple right.

Returning to that scent of the Amatriciana, it too consists of guanciale, pecorino Romano, black pepper and then the egg is substituted for tomato.

As with most food in Italy the debate does not end with the origins of the dish, there are unwritten rules around what pasta can only go with these sauces. The acceptable combinations are:

Carbonara: Spaghetti or spahettone – definitely not fettucine.

Gricia: Spaghetti, rigatoni or bucatini.

Cacio e Pepe: Spaghetti or fresh egg pasta of Tonnarelli, which is a thick type of spaghetti.

Amatriciana: Bucatini, rigatoni or mezze maniche, essentially a pasta that its shape allows it to hold the saucy nature of this dish.

Deviate at your peril.

Nnamo a manga.